Record number of chestnut stalls in Catalonia’s main cities

Come October, a familiar smell takes over the streets of Catalonia. 

The particular scent of autumn is the unmistakable aroma of roasted chestnuts in the crisp air, letting you know that summer is now most definitely behind us. 

Across Barcelona, there are 57 street stalls set up, selling roasted nuts and sweet potatoes, all cooked over an open fire. 

The four regional capitals across Catalonia have a total of 142 chestnut stalls on the streets this ‘Castanyada’ holiday season.

The trend in Barcelona has been moving upwards rapidly, as there were only 25 stalls back in 2017, meaning a 128% growth in less than a decade. In fact, the Catalan capital’s figures could grow further, as others are still in the process of obtaining permits. 

This autumn, 19 stalls have been authorized in the Sant Martí district, by far the most of any district in the Catalan capital. 

“We’ve been open two weeks now, but we’re here until December,” Noelia, a chestnut seller on Rambla Poblenou, tells Catalan News. “People enjoy them when it gets a bit colder, during Halloween time,” she says.

The custom of eating chestnuts at this time of year is linked to the old tradition of church bell ringing on All Saints’ Day, November 1. In between their turns to ring the bells, they would eat chestnuts, and the practice spread beyond just those performing the sonorous ceremony.

It’s also traditional to eat sweet potatoes this time of year, and many of the street stalls will be selling them along with chestnuts. “It’s always the same flavours, sweet,” Noelie explains. “Lots of people put salt on them, but we cook them over fire, and leave it at that.”

As for Girona, the ‘Castanyada’ holiday period coincides with the celebration of the northern city’s patron saint, the Fira de Sant Narcís. As such, the number of chestnut merchants is traditionally as high in Girona as in Barcelona. This year, in fact, the northern city beats the capital by ten stalls, with 67 in total. 

However, the courses from the Girona city council explain that it is possible that some stallholders will end up giving up, depending on the location they have been assigned. 

The stands are located in the fairs area and in other places in the city where activities related to the Sant Narcís celebrations will be held. 

In Lleida, there are six chestnut stalls open this autumn, the same as last year, while Tarragona has 12, two fewer than in 2024.